Some people think
my time in Uganda is just one endless safari.
This is not so! But that
notwithstanding we – Steve, my sister Lyn, cousin Ian and I – have just had
a rather good tour travelling north, east and south-west to see more of Uganda
than most Ugandans have seen.
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Where we went |
This little map shows our peregrinations over 2 weeks starting with my schools, then Mabamba swamp, Karamoja region and Kidepo Valley NP, Sipi Falls, Lake Mburo NP and finishing at Kipling Lodge near Jinja.
We don’t have space at our little house for both Lyn and Ian – only one spare bed – so they stayed at Danma Gardens, a local guesthouse and restaurant that we frequent. It is not The Hilton but it is an African experience.
The trip to Mabamba
Swamp is not a long one and I always enjoy a couple of hours in the narrow
wooden fishing boat tooling around in the papyrus looking for Shoebill and
Papyrus Gonolek – both of which we found with the help of Vincent, a local bird
guide. Many of the usual birds were
absent (off somewhere breeding Steve said) but it was a pleasant morning.
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Shoebill |
The trip to Kidepo
Valley NP, in a hired car with driver, took us over the Nile at Karuma Falls and through Gulu and (overnight at) Kitgum
to the South Sudan border. All through
the Karamoja region there are refugees from the fighting and hunger in South
Sudan. They are building temporary
dwellings and planting crops. They get
some support from UNHCR but are just getting on with life. We saw many children with nothing but a Maasai
blanket for clothes. Oxen are used for
ploughing and it was in full swing with the good rain. This has to be the poorest region we have
seen. It is a “Do not travel” area, as
far as DFAT are concerned, but with so many army personnel plus the UN up there
it is really quite safe. Acts of
terrorism and banditry are rare and we did not feel threatened or unwelcome.
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Karuma Falls |
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Emergency housing |
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We plough the fields and scatter |
Kidepo Valley NP
was splendid. We saw lions and giraffes
but no leopards or elephants even though we were told they were there. Lots of good birds of course! The Abyssinian Ground Hornbills were as
common as chooks. We did a walking
safari with armed guard Simon. There was
one slightly tense moment until he said (in actually quite a relieved voice)
“it’s a lion coloured rock”.
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Walking safari with Simon from UWA |
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Abyssinian Ground Hornbill |
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Rock Hyrax or Dassie |
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Black Crake |
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Close up! |
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Kanataruk Hot Springs |
The trip to the far
north of the park took us to the South Sudan border where there was an army
encampment as well as interesting hot springs.
We saw ostriches and one Secretary bird.
Ian managed to photograph it even though he didn’t actually ‘see’ it (in
the background behind the ostrich) so has the moral dilemma over whether to
claim the sighting! Nga Moru Lodge was a
very nice place to stay. The down side is that when you hire a driver in east Africa you get an East African driver and that is not always an experience you want!
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Landscape near Abim |
We came back
through central Uganda and a rock-strewn landscape then to Lira where we had a
wait while the van was mended. That meant
we arrived in the dark and could hear the falls but didn’t see them until we
opened our curtains the next morning.
Lyn, Ian and I did the walking tour up to the falls and Ian was pleased
to see several chameleons as we walked through the coffee plantations.
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Sipi Falls Number 2 |
We picked up a
self-drive hire car (a Land Cruiser) for the second week. Our RAV is small and has been a bit
unreliable. We had three nights at
Rwakobo Rock and two days in Lake Mburo NP.
It was a bit spoiled by the rain and we had a couple of bogging
incidents necessitating use of four-wheel drive. We saw the small family of giraffes that have
been moved to Lake Mburo from Murchison Falls NP to control the acacia but
again dipped on leopards! Lake Mburo NP
has very many antelope of all sizes and colours, which generally cooperate for
photos. The boat trip was fun too with
good views of crocodiles, hippos and the rare African Finfoot. I insisted on the tourist pic at the Equator.
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Water Buck |
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Rothschild's Giraffe |
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Rednecked Spurfowl family |
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A stripe of zebra |
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Malachite Kingfisher |
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I'm looking at you |
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I insisted! |
Our last two nights
with Lyn and Ian were at my favourite lodge, the Kipling, on the Nile near
Jinja. We did the boat trip to the falls
– motor-boat this time as the current is so strong with the rain. We ate delicious, beautifully presented food
and drank excellent wine.
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On the Nile |
We relaxed and swam
in the pool and I prepared myself mentally for the next two weeks, which will
be full on, jam packed, professional development time for my teachers!
Thanks Lyn and Ian
for coming to see us – we don’t get many visitors!